If you’re looking to buy your first welder, the options can be overwhelming. MIG, TIG, Stick, flux-core, 110v, 220v, name brands vs. budget units. The right choice depends on what you’re actually planning to do with it, and how much you want to invest upfront.
As certified welders with over 20 years in the trade and credentials from the American Welding Society, we’ve used just about every machine on the market. Here’s what we’d tell a friend who asked us what to buy.
Start With What You’re Welding
Before you look at a single machine, answer two questions: what material are you working with, and how thick is it?
Most DIY projects involve mild steel. Truck bumpers, trailer repairs, gates, brackets, furniture frames. For mild steel, a MIG welder is the easiest entry point. It’s forgiving, fast to learn, and handles a wide range of thicknesses.
If you’re working with aluminum or thin stainless, you’ll need a TIG welder. TIG gives you more control and cleaner welds on thinner materials, but it has a steeper learning curve. Most hobbyists don’t need TIG unless they’re doing automotive or artistic work.
For outdoor work, farm repairs, or anything rusty and dirty, a Stick welder is your best bet. Stick welding is the most forgiving when it comes to surface preparation and works well in wind. It’s the oldest process and still the most versatile for rough field work.
MIG: The Best Starting Point for Most People
MIG welding (Metal Inert Gas) feeds a wire electrode through a gun while shielding gas protects the weld from contamination. You pull the trigger, the wire feeds, and you move along the joint. It’s the closest thing to “point and shoot” welding.
Best for: mild steel, auto body panels, brackets, frames, general fabrication, trailer repairs.
What to look for: Get a machine that runs on 220v if you can. A 110v MIG welder will work for thin material (up to about 3/16″), but you’ll hit its limits fast. A 220v machine in the 200-250 amp range gives you room to grow. Lincoln, Miller, and Hobart are the reliable brands. Expect to spend $500 to $1,200 for a solid unit.
Flux-core option: If you don’t want to deal with a shielding gas tank, most MIG welders can run flux-core wire instead. The wire has flux built into it that creates its own shielding. The welds aren’t as clean and there’s more spatter, but it works fine for structural and non-cosmetic work. Good option for outdoor use where wind would blow away shielding gas.
TIG: Precision and Control
TIG welding (Tungsten Inert Gas) uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode and a separate filler rod that you feed by hand. You control the heat with a foot pedal. It’s slower than MIG but produces the cleanest, most precise welds.
Best for: aluminum, stainless steel, thin materials, automotive, artwork, anything where appearance matters.
What to look for: AC/DC capability is important. You need AC for aluminum and DC for steel and stainless. A machine with pulse settings is a nice feature but not essential for a beginner. Budget $800 to $2,000 for a quality unit. Don’t cheap out on a TIG welder. The arc control on budget machines is noticeably worse.
Honest take: If this is your first welder and you’re not specifically working with aluminum, skip TIG for now. Learn on MIG first, then add TIG later when you know what you need.
Stick: The Workhorse
Stick welding (also called SMAW or arc welding) uses a consumable electrode coated in flux. You strike an arc, the electrode melts into the joint, and the flux coating creates a gas shield and a protective slag layer. It’s the simplest setup: just a machine, a ground clamp, an electrode holder, and rods.
Best for: outdoor work, farm equipment, structural steel, rusty or dirty metal, field repairs.
What to look for: A basic Stick welder is the most affordable way into welding. You can get a capable machine for $300 to $600. Look for at least 150 amps for general use. Stick machines are also the most portable since there’s no gas tank or wire feeder to haul around.
Downside: Stick welding produces more spatter and slag than MIG or TIG, and the welds require cleanup. It’s also harder to weld thin material with Stick. But for anything 1/8″ and thicker, it’s hard to beat for reliability and simplicity.
Multi-Process Machines: Worth It?
Several manufacturers now sell multi-process machines that do MIG, TIG, and Stick in one unit. These can be a good value if you know you’ll use multiple processes. Miller’s Multimatic and Lincoln’s Power MIG series are solid options. Expect to pay $1,500 to $3,000 for a quality multi-process machine.
The tradeoff is that a dedicated machine usually performs better at its one process than a multi-process machine does at any of them. For most DIYers, a dedicated MIG welder is a better first purchase.
Safety Gear Is Not Optional
Before you strike your first arc, you need proper safety equipment. This isn’t the place to cut corners. OSHA’s welding safety guidelines exist for good reason, and even DIY welders in a home garage should follow the basics.
At minimum, you need an auto-darkening welding helmet (spend at least $80 for one with decent optical clarity), welding gloves rated for your process, a welding jacket or at least a flame-resistant long-sleeve shirt, and closed-toe leather boots. Never weld in shorts, synthetic fabrics, or without eye protection. UV burn from a welding arc is no joke, and molten spatter will go through a cotton t-shirt. The AWS offers free safety resources worth reviewing before you start.
When to Call a Professional
DIY welding is great for learning and for non-critical projects. But there are times when you should call a professional shop.
If the weld is structural and failure could cause injury, like a trailer hitch, load-bearing bracket, or structural steel work, get it done by a certified welder. If the project involves exotic materials, tight tolerances, or needs to pass inspection, that’s professional territory. And if you need precision machined components to go along with your welded assembly, a full-service shop can handle both.
We’re always happy to help with projects that are beyond DIY scope. Give us a call at (810) 407-7585 or request a quote if you’ve got something that needs professional attention.